DANDY MANIFESTO Context The world of books, writing, manuscripts, calligraphy and coded language. A theme combining the somewhat stuffy elegance of the Oscar Wilde style dandies with a bohemian, more modern, poetic, “artist” spirit. An androgynous silhouette: chic and decadent for a look both outdated yet contemporary. Colours A dark, shady range in a variety of inky tones. Touches of color electrify the palette. And to tone it all down: white and taupy or grayed shades. Beauty Experimental, audacious make-up borrows from Dadaism, typography and photo-montage. Two palettes co-exist: the first explores paper, whiteness and material effects, while the second, darker range is inspired by ink, pencil, charcoal and graphite. Materials Men’s supple, ultra-fine worsted wools in the spirit of Savile Row tailors Stripes used with subtlety: discreet banker’s stripes, stippled chalk stripes, tuxedo pants emphasized with a band of tone-on-tone satin. A graphic spirit borrowed from the wide stripes of club ties or men’s satin waistcoats Fluid fabrics, heavily drapey silks: crêpe, crêpe georgette, chiffon Delicate lace and embroidered tulles Jacquards and tapestry-style weaves are inspired by the elaborate covers of old books Key Women’s’ Products Redingote-coats. Short 2-in-1 jackets (jacket + waistcoat). Little men’s waistcoats. Cigarette-legged pants and darted cropped pants. Striped shirts or with plastrons, shirttails, with scarves and lavallières. Cardigans. With tailored collars, belted, Jacquard Oversized jackets Skintight miniskirts in stretch cotton with rock details: zips, buckles, insets Lace tops and dresses. Key Men’s Products Tuxedo spirit, fitted cuts, in a sportswear mood Short coats in little English checks, basket weaves, tweed. Duffle-coats Historical military coats: engraved ball buttons and double-breasted Prints: checks and flowers for hunting jackets, waistcoats and tapered pants. Riding jackets, short, buttoned and fitted.Accessories Women: lambskin gloves. Textile shoes, decorated pumps, with patent or gimped and perforated toes. Material mixes for bags: skins, crocodile, and natural leather Men: caps inspired by riding hats. Tartan ties. Military and riding boots. Checked Borsalinos. |
All images © Bella Center A/S Copenhagen International Fashion Fair www.ciff.dk |
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